Stones, Metals & Finishes — Bespoke Jewellery Guide | The Illustrated Jeweller Brighton

One of the most common questions I get asked before a bespoke commission begins is: where do I even start? The answer is simpler than you think — you start with a feeling, and we build everything else around it.

Choosing Your Stone

Every stone tells a story. Before I recommend anything, I want to understand you — your personality, your budget, and what you want to feel when you wear it. I have close relationships with trusted gemstone suppliers and an on-hand gemologist for specific requirements. Whether you’re drawn to a deep sapphire, a raw moonstone, or a laboratory-grown diamond, I’ll guide you to something that feels right rather than just looks expensive.

Inclusions aren’t flaws — they’re character. An imperfect stone is often the most beautiful one in the room.

I can also source fully ethically certified stones and lab-grown alternatives for clients who want complete peace of mind about provenance.

Choosing Your Metal

I personally love working in solid 18ct gold — yellow, white, and rose — but every commission is different. If budget is a consideration, 9ct gold is a beautiful and durable option. I’ll always be honest with you about what will work best for your piece and your lifestyle.

Choosing Your Finish

Once your piece comes out of casting, the finish defines its entire character. I offer three:

Full Polish — a high-lustre, liquid mirror finish, handcrafted feather by feather. The most labour-intensive and the most dramatic.

Half Polish — my personal favourite. Clean from casting with a slight remaining texture, giving the piece an antique, organic feel.

Mixed Polish — two contrasting finishes on one piece, creating a stunning tonal depth.

Ring Sizing

Getting your size right matters. I offer a free consultation in Brighton, or I can guide you to a local jeweller with a Wheatsheaf ring sizer — the only brand I trust for accuracy. If your ring doesn’t fit perfectly on arrival, I offer a free resize. Note: twisted rope rings cannot be resized due to their repeating pattern, so we always confirm size carefully before casting.

Ready to begin? Book a consultation and let’s start with your story.